How to Grow and Care for Zebra Haworthia

In this article, you’ll learn about the origins of this unique plant and its fundamental needs in terms of light, water, soil, and climate.

While we’ll focus primarily on growing it as a houseplant, we’ll also touch on outdoor cultivation for those of you in warmer zones.

If you’ve never grown zebra haworthia before, this information will get you off to an excellent start with your new houseplant.

On the other hand, if you’ve tried growing zebra haworthia, and (let’s just say it) – failed, you’ll learn what may have gone wrong.

Keep reading and the next time you bring one of these attractive little succulents home, you’ll be prepared to grow a happy, healthy, and long-lived houseplant.

In this guide, we’ll be covering all you need to know to grow and care for zebra haworthias.

Before we get started, be sure to also read or bookmark our complete guide to growing haworthias if you’re looking for more general guidance.

Here’s what’s coming up:

What Is Zebra Haworthia?

Zebra haworthia (Haworthiopsis attenuata) is a small succulent with spiky leaves that grow in an attractive rosette shape.

As the plant matures, it forms a mat-like clump as it produces offsets, or baby plants, alongside the mother plant.

Individual plants are around two and a half to six inches wide, and two and a half to ten inches tall – with leaves growing to about three inches long.

The dark green, succulent leaves are slender with pointed ends and variegated types are dark green with yellow, white, pink, orange, or light green variegation.

The dark green parts of the leaves take on copper, red, or purple hues as plants are exposed to more direct sunlight.

The leaves have raised, white markings on their surfaces known as tubercles, the purpose of these is to allow the plant to expand and contract with fluctuating water availability.

This is one of the many wonderful features that makes zebra haworthia such an adaptable houseplant!

While best known for the striped patterns that give this plant its common name, zebra haworthia, different varieties of the species have different tubercle patterns.

These marks give the foliage a rough texture, and can help succulent lovers recognize distinct varieties – but not always easily. Even on the same plant there can be variation, making identification somewhat tricky.

Though these succulents may not flower when grown indoors, in summer plants grown outdoors may produce small, white, tubular flowers on stalks that can be up to 15 inches tall.

Cultivation and History

This succulent is native to Mozambique, Namibia, South Africa, and Swaziland, where it grows in sparsely vegetated, rocky and grassy habitats among larger plants that provide some shade from the hot sun.

With its aloe-like shape, it may not surprise you to learn that zebra haworthia was first classified botanically in 1804 in the Aloe genus.

In 1812 the species was reclassified as a member of the Haworthia genus, a grouping of plants known in particular for their translucent green leaves.

But – since there’s never a dull moment in taxonomy! – in 2013 and 2014, the Haworthia genus was subdivided, with some of its members reclassified as Haworthiopsis, and others renamed as Tulista.

While the genus Haworthia is named after botanist Adrian Haworth, Haworthiopsis means quite simply “like Haworthia.” The species epithet, attenuata, refers to the manner in which the leaves taper to a point.

Despite those botanical reclassifications, zebra haworthia remains categorized in the Asphodelaceae family, related to such succulent cousins as Christmas carol aloe, lace aloe, gasteria, and aloe vera – but also to less obvious relatives like daylilies and red hot pokers!

Within the Haworthiopsis genus, this succulent has some close relatives that also make good houseplants – H. coarctata and H. reinwardtii.

Zebra haworthia is also sometimes called zebra plant, though there are other houseplants that go by that name – such as Aphelandra zebra plant, and calathea zebrina, a type of prayer plant.

Another species that is also called zebra plant is one of the members of the Haworthiopsis genus – H. fasciata. In fact, many nurseries incorrectly label H. attenuata as H. fasciata. The latter is actually rather rare in cultivation.

Zebra haworthia is vulnerable in its native habitat due to over-collecting and habitat loss – so make sure you purchase yours from a nursery dedicated to sustainable growing practices.

For those in warmer climates, this succulent can be grown outdoors year round in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11.

Zebra Haworthia Propagation 

There are a few different ways you can propagate new Haworthiopsis plants – including via offsets, which is the method we’ll cover here.

If you’d like guidance for starting new plants using alternate methods, be sure to read our guide to propagating succulents.

In addition to propagation via offsets, we’ll also cover how to transplant offsets and plants purchased at the nursery or garden center.

From Offsets

Zebra haworthias produce offsets – also known as pups – around the base of the mother plant.

If you’d like to propagate these offsets, you’ll need wait until they have roots of their own. You can determine this by removing the plant from its pot and examining the outer edge of the root ball.

Roots may not form until the offset is roughly half the size of the mother plant. Once the offset has roots, make sure to propagate during a period of active growth – spring or summer.

Before returning the mother plant to its pot or transplanting the offsets, allow the wounds from the cuts to callus over for about a week. During this time, simply place the plants on a plate in a dry location out of direct sunlight.

Once the wounds have callused, transplant the pups, and return the mother plant to its pot.

From Transplants

When potting up offsets or repotting mature plants, you’ll need growing medium, such as the mix recommended above.

If you want to repot a specimen that has outgrown its pot, you’ll also need a new container – remember to choose one that’s just one size larger than the current container.

Also – I’ve said it before, I’ll say it again – make sure to choose a pot that has drainage holes.

If you have your heart set on a particular decorative pot that has no drainage holes, pot the houseplant into a nursery pot with holes that will fit inside your fancier container. That way you can remove the succulent from its decorative cachepot when watering.

Four-inch-wide pots are a good size for offsets, and may also work for individual plants that haven’t yet matured into clumps, depending on the size of the root mass of the specimen.

If the plant is becoming somewhat rootbound, loosen the roots. You can use a fork to tease the roots apart if needed.

Place the root ball into the pot and check to see if it is positioned at the right level – you want a half inch to an inch of space between the top of the growing medium and the rim of the pot. Remove or add growing medium if needed.

Once the plant is at the right level, fill in around it with more growing medium, tapping it down gently to remove any air pockets.

Instead of watering right away, wait a week before watering freshly transplanted zebra haworthias.

How to Grow Zebra Haworthia

Zebra haworthias are easy to care for, making these succulents excellent choices as houseplants.

When you choose a specimen, make sure to inspect it for signs of disease or pests – you’ll learn what to look for later in the article, so keep reading.

Although these succulents are sometimes wrongly referred to as cacti, they aren’t well adapted to living their lives in full sun all day long. Instead, when growing outdoors situate them in light shade where they will receive a few hours of direct sun during the cooler parts of the day.

Indoors, offer these plants indirect bright light, potentially with three to four hours of direct sun in the morning.

Keep in mind that with increased light intensity, these succulents will develop reddish coloring on the leaves. Very red leaves may mean your plant is exposed to too much direct sunlight.

Conversely, if your zebra haworthia starts to look light green or even whitish at the center rather than dark green, know that your plant is not getting enough light.

If you’re using a light meter, aim for around 500 to 1000 foot candles – if you aren’t able to achieve that in your home, consider using a grow light to supplement.

Learn more about using a light meter in our article.

While these succulent plants have a natural ability to store water, the amount of moisture your zebra haworthia will need is directly related to the amount of light the houseplant receives. If you are providing some direct sun, you’ll need to water more often.

Don’t water until the growing medium is almost completely dry – except in winter, when you should let the soil dry out entirely. This may be as long as a month or more, depending on the conditions in your home.

If you aren’t sure whether it’s time to water or not, err on the side of underwatering rather than overwatering. You’ll do less damage with a bit of neglect than with too much care.

Make sure to water the surface of the soil evenly, and give it a good drench until water runs out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.

Are you wondering if you need filtered water for your houseplant?

Read our article to learn more about the best water for succulents.

Regarding growing medium, as discussed previously in this article, choose a mix that is very gritty or start with a commercial cactus and succulent mix and add additional grit. The ideal soil pH is 6.1 to 7.8.

Zebra haworthias grow best when temperatures are between 70 to 95°F and they need good air circulation.

Some gardeners report that these succulents suffer cold damage at temperatures below 50°F, while others claim they are tolerant of temperatures down to freezing or slightly below.

So if you are growing your Haworthiopsis plant outdoors for part of the year, you’ll want to watch the thermometer and be sure to return your succulent indoors in autumn before the weather cools.

Want to learn more about growing succulents outdoors? Be sure to read our article!

Growing Tips

• Provide bright indirect light and up to a few hours of direct sunlight.
• Grow in well-draining, gritty soil.
• Allow the potting medium to dry almost completely between waterings.

Maintenance

When it comes to maintaining your succulent, there are only a few things to be aware of: pruning the leaf tips, repotting, and fertilizing.

Let’s start with pruning.

There are different factors that can cause the tips of a zebra haworthia succulent to turn brown: high temperatures, too much direct sun, and insufficient water.

If your houseplant is consistently producing brown tips, you may need to re-read the care recommendations in this guide to help you adjust lighting and water.

In the meantime, though, if the brown tips bother you, you can choose to prune them. Use a sterilized pair of sharp garden pruners to snip off the brown tips.

Since zebra haworthias are slow growing plants, you won’t need to repot these succulents very often – only every two to three years.

When that two or three year mark comes around, plan to repot during spring or summer, when the houseplant is in an active period of growth.

When it’s time to repot, you have the choice of simply changing out the growing medium and returning the specimen to the same pot, or potting up to a larger container.

Check the roots and if the specimen is rootbound or filling up the pot with offsets, you’ll need to choose a new container that’s one size larger.

Make sure the pot has drainage holes, and if you are reusing a container, be sure to clean it and wipe it down with hydrogen peroxide.

If the roots haven’t outgrown the current container and you’re just changing out the potting medium, remove the old growing medium and add it to your compost pile, then proceed with repotting as discussed in the transplanting section above.

Fertilizing is not something you’ll need to do often for your zebra haworthia, adding to the low maintenance charm of this succulent.

Clariperla

The markings on Haworthia attenuata var. clariperla don’t form stripes. Instead, they look like scattered pearls of different sizes.

These gem-like tubercles are spread on both the tops and the undersides of the leaves.

Glabrata

H. attenuata var. glabrata is a variety that has fewer tubercles, giving the plant a smoother appearance than the straight species.

Also known as Haworthiopsis concolor, this variety is also a lighter shade of green than the species.

Enon

H. attenuata var. attenuata ‘Enon,’ also known as H. attenuata f. Enon or H. attenuata f. tanba is a dwarf form of the species that reaches just three to five inches tall.

The short leaves give them a triangular shape, and they are speckled with white tubercles.

This form of the species is a cliff dweller, and the leaf topsides are often smooth rather than marked with tubercles.

Radula

While the straight species has large tubercles that form stripes, the leaves of H. attenuata var. radula are densely covered with tiny tubercles, giving the foliage a rather rough texture.

These small, numerous white markings also give these houseplants a silvery appearance.

Variegata

H. attenuata f. variegata is a form of the species that has variegation which can be silvery white, yellow, pink, or orange.

Here are a few issues to look out for as you choose a houseplant, and once you bring the zebra haworthia home:

Insects

Zebra haworthia is quite resilient and isn’t easily damaged by most pests, making it an easy-care houseplant.

If you are bringing home a new specimen or have placed your houseplants outside for the summer, check the Haworthiopsis for these insects:

Fungus Gnats

Have you noticed small flies zipping around your houseplant? These are likely fungus gnats.

Fungus gnats are more of a problem around plants with moist potting medium that contains a lot of organic matter.

So if you have been a bit heavy handed with the watering can or brought your houseplant home in a growing medium that contains peat, you may have accidentally created a welcoming environment for these insects.

While they tend to be more of a nuisance than a real pest, if populations get out of control, their larvae can damage the roots of the houseplant.

There are different ways you can control these insects on houseplants, but first make sure you identify the pests correctly.

Learn how to identify and control fungus gnats in our guide.

Once you determine that fungus gnats are indeed a problem for your succulent – re-evaluate your watering routine and inspect your potting medium.

If the growing medium is too high in organic matter, consider repotting with the type of mix recommended above.

Mites

Do you see light brown scarring on the edges of the foliage? If so, your succulent may have a mite infestation.

There are different types of mites that can infest succulents and the worst of them are impossible to see without a microscope, making recognizing and treating the problem a bit tricky.

Before treating a mite infestation on a houseplant, be sure you’ve correctly identified the pest.

Read our guide to learn more about identifying and controlling mites on succulents.

Mealybugs

When mealybugs show up, they are usually noticeable by their white, fuzzy appearance.

But not all mealybugs feed on the foliage of plants – and you may be more likely to find these bugs feeding on the roots of your zebra haworthia than on its tough, succulent foliage.

Since they are below the growing medium, root mealybugs are hard to detect, and you may not even see signs of damage on the aboveground portion of the houseplant – though an infestation can eventually cause yellowing foliage and stunted growth.

To check your specimen for root mealybugs, lift the succulent out of its pot and inspect the outer edge of the root ball.

Root mealybugs look like grains of rice. They can be difficult to differentiate from small pieces of perlite in the soil, but grab a magnifying glass and look closely – mealybugs have short antennae and sometimes clump together. They’ll be on the plant’s roots if they’re there.

If you confirm that there are root mealybugs on your succulent, first and foremost – quarantine your plant so that these bugs don’t spread to your other houseplants.

Next, it’s time to clean the roots and repot!

Remove the plant from its pot, then brush off as much of the growing medium as possible and dispose of it.

Dip a cotton swab in isopropyl alcohol and dab the mealybugs to kill them. You may also want to put some rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle and spray the root ball.

Discard the old potting medium, wash and sterilize the pot, and add fresh growing medium.

You may need to repeat this process until the pests are gone.

Learn more about controlling mealybug infestations with our article.

Disease

The main disease you’re likely to encounter with these succulents is root rot, a condition usually brought on by a combination of overwatering and insufficient light levels.

However, lack of drainage holes in pots and poorly draining growing medium can also contribute to this disease.

Root rot can actually make plants dry out, and you may notice shriveled leaves.

Prevention is best – follow the light and water recommendations indicated above, and choose both a pot and growing medium that provide excellent drainage.

Learn more about preventing and managing rotting in succulents in our guide.

Best Uses for Zebra Haworthia

In addition to keeping a single specimen or clump in a pot, zebra haworthia can also be grown in mixed succulent planters with plants that have similar growth requirements, such as jade, echeveria, and hens and chicks.

If you’re feeling especially whimsical, you might even consider including this houseplant in a succulent fairy garden!

Also, this Haworthiopsis species makes a good substitute for aloe if you want a nontoxic houseplant option that’s safe for households with pets or young kids.

And if you’re interested in long-lived houseplants like Christmas cactus, hoyas, and weeping figs, add zebra haworthia to your list – this succulent can live for several decades in cultivation!