Pittosporum spp.
Pittosporum, Pittosporum spp., is a genus of over 200 flowering ornamental shrubs, trees, and vines in the Pittosporaceae family.
There are species suitable for cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 11. Bloom times vary from late winter through early summer, depending on the type.
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As a floral designer, I became familiar with the sturdy stems and leathery leaves of pittosporum, ordering masses of “pitt” for “greening up” festive wedding centerpieces.
Read on and learn about these spring-flowering ornamentals and various ways to showcase them in your landscape.
Here’s what we’ll cover together:
Get your gardening gloves on, and let’s get started!
Cultivation and History
There are Pittosporum species endemic to Australia, China, Japan, Korea, and New Zealand.
Japanese pittosporum, aka Japanese cheesewood or mock orange, P. tobira is a common home landscape choice. Dwarf varieties also make excellent container specimens.
P. tobira is a broadleaf evergreen with an upright, rounded form, and spreading growth habit. Mature dimensions are 10 to 15 feet tall and wide.
Dwarf cultivars measure approximately 24 to 36 inches tall and 48 to 60 inches wide. This species has above average drought resistance and salt tolerance.
The elongated leaves roll backward at the edges and narrow at the base, alternating along the stems and appearing in whorls at the terminal ends.
Some Japanese pittosporum cultivars have glossy dark green foliage, others have matte leaves that are variegated gray-green and creamy white or yellow.
The flowers are white and sweet, like orange blossoms. They cluster at the terminal ends of the branches in an umbel or umbrella-like form.
After fading to creamy yellow, they produce green pods. The pods eventually turn brown, drying and cracking before revealing masses of sticky red fruits that house the seeds.
Historically speaking, in 1784, Swedish naturalist Karl Peter von Thunberg classified the species as Euonymus tobira.
By 1811, it was reclassified as Pittosporum tobira and was exhibited in the world-renowned Kew Gardens plant collection. From there, it made its way from public to private gardens and, by the mid-19th century, entered commercial cultivation in the United States.
P. tobira has become a widely cultivated ornamental landscape plant in regions with warm, wet winters and dry, hot summers, typical of a Mediterranean climate.
Under ideal conditions, this species has the potential to naturalize invasively and has done so in the Catalonia region of Spain.
In addition to outdoor container cultivation, dwarf Japanese pittosporum is suited to growing as a houseplant in bright, indirect sunlight.
In addition, there is a large commercial market for cut stems in the floral industry.
Chinese pittosporum, P. heterophyllum, is native to China. It’s a broadleaf shrub with a mature height of eight to 10 feet and a spread of five to six feet.
The foliage is green, glossy, and dense with fragrant pale yellow flowers in the spring.
New Zealand native kohuhu aka black matipo, P. tenuifolium, is a dense shrub with a height of 15 to 25 feet and a width of 10 to 15 feet.
It has small, glossy green, ovate leaves, dark brown to black stems, and clusters of fragrant deep purple spring blossoms.
Stiffleaf cheesewood or karo, P. crassifolium, is also native to New Zealand. Mature heights range to 16 feet with a spread of up to nine feet.
It has ovate leaves and dark brown to black stems. Fragrant burgundy flowers bloom in the spring. This species grows aggressively and has invasive tendencies.
Weeping pittosporum, P. angustifolium, formerly P. phillyreoides, is an Australian native species with a mature height of 20 and 30 feet and a spread of 10 to 15 feet.
Characteristics include narrow green leaves, pendant branches, and fragrant yellow blooms in late winter.
Pittosporum Propagation
To get started, you can propagate pittosporum from seed, via layering, from cuttings, or by purchasing a nursery plant for transplanting.
Let’s discuss these methods in more detail.
From Seed
Pittosporum seeds take months to germinate and if they are collected from hybrids, the plants will not replicate the characteristics of the parent plant, so this isn’t a very reliable method of propagation.
Purchase seeds from a reputable vendor or you can harvest seeds from an existing plant when the pods open and afford access to the sticky fruits inside.
Remove the sticky pulp and wash and dry the seeds.
In the spring, sow pittosporum seeds in moist, organically-rich potting medium in seed trays and set them in a location with cool temperatures of 54 to 59°F.
Maintain even moisture without oversaturating the soil. After germination, provide bright, indirect sunlight.
Allow seedlings to remain in place until the following spring.
After the last average frost date, acclimate them to the outdoors for a few hours each day.
Place them in a sunny, sheltered location and increase the time spent outdoors gradually over the course of about two weeks.
This process is called hardening off and eases the transition to the landscape.
From Layering
If you already have a pittosporum shrub growing in the garden, you can use one of the lower branches to propagate by layering.
In the spring, gently press one of the lowest branches to the ground. It should not be forced, but bend easily without breaking. If all the branches are too high to do so, don’t use this method.
Using a clean garden knife, scrape off a one-inch length of the bark to reveal the inner cambium at the point where the stem touches the ground.
Make a shallow depression below the scraped portion and press the branch into the soil.
Cover the scraped portion with a few handfuls of soil to create a mound.
Place a rock over the mound to weigh the branch down and hold it firmly in place.
Over the next season or two, the scraped stem will root and grow new foliage. You’ll know it has taken hold when you remove the weight, tug it very gently, and feel resistance.
In the spring, after blooming, cut the stem between the new growth and the parent plant to sever it from the original branch.
Use a long-handled shovel and your foot to dig beneath the rooted portion.
Lift out the entire clump, dirt, and all, and replant it immediately as desired.
From Cuttings
The easiest way to propagate a new pittosporum shrub is with a stem cutting.
In late summer, use clean shears to cut a length of soft green stem at least three inches long from the tip. Cut just beneath a leaf node which is a natural growing point.
Remove the foliage from the lower part of the stem so you have about two inches of bare stem with a few leaves on top.
Fill a six-inch pot three-quarters full with organically-rich potting soil. It should have a drainage hole at the bottom and, ideally, be made from porous material to allow excess moisture to evaporate.
Dip the cut end of the stem into rooting hormone powder.
Poke the dipped stem into the soil until the first set of leaves is just above the soil – at least an inch deep.
Tamp the soil firmly around the stem so it stays upright and water well.
Place the starter container in bright indirect sunlight and maintain even moisture. The following spring it will be ready for hardening off and planting out.
Transplanting
Plant pittosporum seedlings and rooted cuttings in the spring. Set them at the same level they were in the original container.
For nursery plants, set at the same depth as the original container or with the crown, where the stems and roots meet, just above soil level to facilitate drainage.
Work the soil to a depth of eight to 12 inches for a seedling or cutting. For a nursery plant, work it as deep as the pot and two to three times as wide.
Set your plant at the same depth as it was in the original container, with the crown slightly above ground level to promote drainage and prevent rotting.
Space multiple pittosporum plants 10 to 15 feet apart for full-size shrubs or trees, 24 to 60 inches apart for dwarf varieties, and 36 inches apart if you want to grow your pittosporum as a hedge.
Tamp the soil firmly and water well.
Don’t fertilize at this time. Wait until the following spring.
How to Grow Pittosporum
Pittosporum thrives in full sun to part shade, but may grow leggy in deep shade. In the warmest regions, morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal.
Expect container-grown shrubs to be of smaller stature than in-ground specimens. Select dwarf varieties for best results if you wish to grow in containers.
The ideal soil is of average quality, well-draining, and slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH of 6.1 to 7.3.
Conduct a soil test and amend with compost or humus to acidify, and add lime to sweeten if needed. Micronutrient, aka trace mineral, deficiencies may occur in alkaline soil that may be detrimental to growth.
To grow a dwarf pittosporum cultivar in a container, choose a vessel that is porous, like terra cotta, to allow excess moisture to evaporate.
Pittosporum roots are shallow, so use a standard pot with a diameter that provides eight to 10 inches of space around and under the root ball.
Consider that dwarf shrub widths vary from 12 to 60 inches, so you’ll have to know the expected size to choose your pot. Plan to repot every few years to accommodate growth and replenish the soil.
The potting soil you choose should be rich in organic matter, like peat or compost, and inorganic perlite or vermiculite to facilitate drainage while being moisture retentive.
Pots dry out faster than ground soil, do be vigilant about watering.
Whether you grow in a container or in-ground, use a moisture meter and maintain even moisture during the first year after planting. Avoid oversaturation that may cause rotting.
First year pittosporum shrubs need a good soaking at least once a week and more if it is especially dry, hot, and/or windy.
Once established, most pittosporum species are fairly drought tolerant but may wilt , drop leaves, and/or bloom poorly during extended dry periods.
An inch of water a week is adequate during the growing season. Provide an occasional soaking during the winter in the absence of rain.
Growing Tips
To get your pittosporum off to a healthy start, remember the following:
- Provide full sun to partial shade.
- The soil should drain well and be slightly acidic to neutral.
- Maintain even moisture until plants are established.
Well-planted flora is the most likely to thrive. Now that we’re off to a healthy start, let’s talk about ongoing care.
Pruning and Maintenance
Young pittosporum plants grow fast, but the rate slows with age. You can let yours reach mature dimensions without pruning or you can clip them for informal hedges, shrubs, or small trees as desired.
This type of pruning is “selective,” in which cuts are made just above a leaf node, rather than lopping en masse, to preserve the whorled foliar appearance and avoid chopped leaves.
Take care to prune your pittosporum after blooming, or you may never see flowers, and note that stems and leaves have a pungent odor when cut.
Fertilize in early spring, starting the year after planting, with a balanced, slow-release granular product.
Apply it to moist soil and then water per package instructions. Sprinkle it away from the stems to avoid burning them.
Pittosporum Cultivars to Select
When selecting a pittosporum variety, consider mature dimensions and plan where to place them accordingly.
Here are some you may like:
Golf Ball
If you crave a formal style hedge, consider P. tenuifolium ‘Golf Ball,’ a low-profile green-leafed cultivar with a three- to four-foot height and width.
Unlike large-leaved varieties that require the cutting of one stem at a time to maintain an attractive, whorled appearance, ‘Golf Ball’ looks less chopped even after lopping because it has small leaves.
Mojo
Mojo®, P. tobira ‘CNI Three,’ is a variegated dwarf pittosporum that casts its spell with glossy spring green foliage splashed with creamy white.
Mojo
The white flowers are fragrant. Mature dimensions are 36 inches tall and wide.
Mojo® is available in five-gallon containers from Southern Living via Walmart.
Nanum
P. tobira ‘Nanum’ is a dwarf pittosporum that’s a sweetheart in a pot. It’s a compact shrub with whorled green leaves and fragrant, orange-blossom-like white spring flowers that fade to yellow.
Mature dimensions are a petite 12 to 24 inches tall and wide.
Silver Queen
P. tenuifolium ‘Silver Queen’ presents regal splendor with gray-green foliage edged in cream and clusters of small but fragrant purple spring blooms.
Mature dimensions are 10 to 12 feet tall and six to eight feet wide.
Tom Thumb
P. tenuifolium ‘Tom Thumb’ is the star of the show with a petite, rounded form.
The foliage of this dwarf cultivar emerges green and matures to deep purple. Tiny deep red blossoms fill the garden with sweet fragrance from spring to summer.
Shrubs mature to a low-profile 24 to 36 inches tall and wide.
Variegated
P. tobira ‘Variegata’ aka variegated pittosporum has minty fresh bright green foliage edged in cream, and white flowers that infuse spring landscapes with the essence of orange blossoms.
‘Variegata’
Mature dimensions are a substantial six to eight feet tall and wide.
‘Variegata’ is available from Fast Growing Trees in three-gallon containers.
Wheeler’s Dwarf
Wheeler’s dwarf, P. tobira ‘Wheeleri’ is a largish dwarf variety with glossy green leaves sure to shine in your outdoor living space.
The white spring flowers are fragrant. Mature dimensions are 24 to 36 inches tall and 48 to 60 inches wide.
Eight-inch Wheeler’s dwarf plants are available from Home Depot.
Managing Pests and Disease
As with most species, when growing pittosporum, there are some pests and diseases that you should be familiar with.
When cultivated in ideal conditions, they aren’t particularly susceptible to infestation or infection, but plants stressed by over- or underwatering are more vulnerable.
Pests
Common pests you may come across include:
Aphids, cottony cushion scale, Icerya purchasi, mealybugs, and whiteflies are sapsucking insects that feed on plant juices, causing leaf deformity and desiccation.
Scale is particularly devastating because it feeds on pittosporum wood in addition to foliage. Organic neem oil may prove effective against these pests.
In addition to feeding on plant juices, sapsuckers excrete “honeydew,” which creates a breeding ground for sooty mold, one of the diseases discussed below.
The pests may also vector disease as they puncture plant tissue with their chewing mouthparts.
Root-knot nematodes, Meloidogyne spp., are soil parasites that damage root hairs and tissue, impairing nutrient uptake.
Symptoms include a decline in overall health, dull foliage, and root deformity. Treatments are usually ineffective.
Purchase quality plants and keep the garden weeded to inhibit nematode proliferation.
Disease
Some diseases to keep an eye out for when growing pittosporum are:
Cotton Root Rot
The Phymatotrichum omnivorum fungus causes cotton root rot, aka Texas root root with symptoms of leaf yellowing, wilting, and plant death.
Roots lifted from the soil are brown and decayed. No treatments have proven highly effective, so infected specimens should be removed and disposed of in the trash.
Leaf Spot
Cercospora leaf spot, aka angular leaf spot is caused by Cercospora pittospori.
Symptoms include angular yellow patches on the foliage that turn brown and merge before the leaves drop off the plant. Warm, wet weather favors the development of this disease.
Alternaria tenuissima is a fungal pathogen that causes Alternaria leaf spot. Affected foliage may be deformed and have yellow or chlorotic spots that appear sunken with dried brown centers. High humidity may exacerbate infection.
There are fungicidal treatments, like MilStop® SP Foliar Fungicide that contains potassium bicarbonate to kill fungal spores.
MilStop SP Foliar Fungicide
MilStop® SP Foliar Fungicide is available from Arbico Organics in five or 25-pound packages.
Phytophthora Root Rot
Phytophthora is a genus of oomycetes or water molds. Those that cause rotting live underground and favor oversaturated soil.
Visible symptoms above ground include yellowing, wilting, and foliar decline, while the roots below decay.
Fungicidal products that are not specially formulated to address this water mold are not likely to be effective.
Actinovate® AG contains Streptomyces, a type of soilborne bacteria that colonizes the soil to displace pathogens and support plant health.
This product will only be effective if it is applied in the early stages of infection.
Actinovate® AG
You can find Actinovate AG available at Arbico Organics.
Rhizoctonia Aerial Blight
Multiple species of Rhizoctonia fungi live in the soil, and infection typically starts in the lower leaves.
Symptoms include tan blotches with purple edges. Hot, wet conditions favor the development of this disease. Fungicidal treatment with neem oil may prove successful.
Sooty Mold
Sooty mold is a fungus that grows on the honeydew secreted by sapsucking pests like aphids. It covers the foliage with a blackish, fuzzy coating and may impede chlorophyll production.
You can learn more about sooty mold in our guide.
Best Uses for Pittosporum
When introducing pittosporum to the landscape, versatility is the name of the game.
Dwarf types are well-suited to growing in borders and containers. The smallest make attractive and manageable houseplants. Shape them with selective pruning to preserve whorled leaf patterns.
Pittosporum also makes attractive foundation plantings, but soil near buildings tends to be compacted. If you choose this placement, ensure the soil drains well before planting or you risk the plant suffering from root rot.
Mass plant multiple small pittosporum varieties for a richly textured ground cover.
Group large varieties together for a dense privacy screen and windbreak.
Prune large-leafed types, like P. tobira, selectively as informal hedges that showcase whorled leaf arrangements, rather than lopping multiple branches at once for a formal style hedge and ending up with noticeably chopped foliage.
Other options include shaping your pittosporum shrub into a treelike form, revealing the main stems and creating a decorative canopy of foliage.
Finally, large and small varieties make excellent standalone specimens.
Prune as desired or let them grow to their maximum heights and widths for a naturalistic display.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
| Plant Type: | Broadleaf evergreen shrub | Flower/Foliage Color | White, yellow / green, gray-green, pink tinged, variegated green and white |
| Native to: | Australia, China, Japan, Korea, New Zealand | Tolerance: | Drought, humidity, salt |
| Hardiness (USDA Zone): | 8-11 | Maintenance: | Low |
| Bloom Time/Season: | Late winter, spring, early summer | Soil Type: | Average |
| Exposure: | Full sun to part shade | Soil pH: | 6.0-7.0 |
| Spacing: | 24-60 inches (dwarf), 10-15 (full size) | Soil Drainage: | Well-draining |
| Planting Depth: | Surface sow (seed), crown slightly above soil level | Attracts: | Pollinators |
| Height: | 12-36 inches (dwarf), 10-30 feet (full size) | Uses: | Border, container, foundation, ground cover, hedge, houseplant, mass planting, privacy screen, small tree, specimen, windbreak |
| Spread: | 12-60 inches (dwarf), 10-15 feet (full size) | Order: | Apiales |
| Growth Rate: | Moderate | Family: | Pittosporaceae |
| Water Needs: | Moderate | Genus: | Pittosporum |
| Common Pests and Diseases: | Aphids, cottony cushion scale, mealybugs, root-knot nematodes, whiteflies; leaf spot, cotton root rot, Phytophthora root rot, Rhizoctonia aerial blight, sooty mold | Species: | Angustifolium, crassifolium, heterophyllum, tenuifolium, tobira |
Evergreen Versatility
Pittosporum offers gardeners in Zones 8 to 11 the opportunity to grow ground covers, hedges, potted specimens, shrubs, and trees.
Those of us in other zones can enjoy the smallest dwarf varieties indoors as houseplants.
Add pittosporum to your garden planner today for lush foliage all year round.
Do you grow pittosporum? Tell us about it in the comments section below.
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